Gorgeous Fall Getaway

Seattle Magazine, October 2007
By Roddy Scheer

Reputed by some to be the most scenic 80-mile stretch in America, the Columbia River Gorge east of Portland, Oregon makes for an ideal fall getaway weekend for Seattleites willing to make the three-hour trek south. Cutting the only sea-level path through the majestic Cascade Mountains, the Gorge features 4,000 foot peaks on each side of the river dressed to the nines every October when the otherwise dominant green pigments of billions of deciduous leaves give way to the reds, oranges, and yellows of fall. More than 70 sizable waterfalls feed the river along the course of the Gorge.

The quintessential way to take in the Gorge is by driving the Historic Columbia River Highway that follows the south side of the mighty Columbia between the Oregon towns of Troutdale and the Dalles. While a windshield tour can provide glimpses of glorious waterfalls, getting out of the car provides even better views, especially at the Gorge’s primary attraction, Multnomah Falls. The 620-foot cataract—the second highest year-round waterfall in the country--drops from towering Larch Mountain, interrupted only by a stone footbridge crafted by Italian masons in 1914. The Multnomah Falls Lodge at the base of the falls was built in 1925 using every type of rock found in the Gorge. Drinking a cup of tea by the fireplace (or enjoying breakfast, lunch or dinner) is a great way to warm up on a cool fall day, although overnight accommodations are not available there. Another highlight for many Gorge visitors is a family-friendly day-hike on the Eagle Creek Trail to the oft-photographed Punchbowl Falls. Hikers beware: wet fall leaves dotting the path can be slippery.

A less crowded way to enjoy the Gorge’s delights is by driving Washington State Route 14 on the north side of the river. Beacon Rock, where Lewis and Clark plotted out the last leg of their westward journey to the Pacific, makes for a nice picnic spot. Another highlight is touring the Bonneville Dam (541.374.8820, www.nwp.usace.army.mil/op/b/), an engineering marvel built in 1938 that supplies electricity for millions of Pacific Northwest denizens.

Far from a wilderness outpost, the Gorge features several nice hotels, especially dotting the streets of historic Hood River, Oregon. One of the best is the Columbia Gorge Hotel (800.345.1921, www.columbiagorgehotel.com), an old-fashioned Victorian-style mansion built on a ledge atop 207-foot-tall Wah-Gwin-Gwin Falls. The hotel’s signature five-course breakfast comes with any overnight stay, and may be worth the price of admission all by itself. At the other end of the Gorge, some good lodging options include the Skamania Lodge (800.221.7117, www.skamania.com), a full-service mountain resort on 175 wooded acres, and the Columbia Gorge Riverside Lodge (866.427.5650, www.cgriversidelodge.com), both located in Stevenson, Washington.

Getting there: Getting to the Gorge from Seattle is as easy as hopping onto I-5 South for 150 miles or so (crossing into Oregon), then taking I-84 East toward the Dalles. Exit 64 leads right to the Historic Columbia River Highway.