Getting Back to the Land in Eastern Washington's Palouse

Seattle Magazine, September 2004
By Roddy Scheer

As our station wagon spirals up the road to the top of Steptoe Butte in the heart of southeastern Washington's Palouse region, the sweet afternoon light on this clear autumn day highlights the almost disarming beauty of the curving amber and black lines carved into the rolling hills below by farmers collecting their wheat and lentil harvests. Oregon's Wallowa Mountains, not much more than 100 miles to the south, look like distant ships sailing off the edge of the world. From this eyrie 3,600 feet above the surrounding amber waves of grain, we feel like we're a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of our everyday lives in the city.

Just a half-day drive (or one hour flight) from Seattle, the Palouse is a sleepy agricultural area long a favorite destination for artists due to its striking geography, expansive vistas, and quaint small towns. Encompassing 4,000 square miles, the area borders Spokane to the north and the Snake River to the south, and spills over the Idaho border on its eastern flank. The city of Pullman (population: 25,000), home to Washington State University, anchors the region, but hardly represents the relaxed mood one can absorb by driving around quiet backroads and popping into smaller towns like Oakesdale, Colfax and Steptoe.

Like much of the Pacific Northwest, the Palouse owes its immense natural appeal to a combination of volcanic upheaval and the eroding effects of water. But unlike the chiseled profile of much of the rest of Washington State, the topography of the Palouse is soft and inviting, sculpted not by rock and magma but instead by ancient waves of fast-moving floodwater unleashed when a Montana ice dam gave way ten millennia ago. The result is a geologically unique area featuring verdant undulating mounds punctuated by the occasional butte rising above it all.

Prior to white settlement in the 1880s, the hills of the Palouse had been used for thousands of years by Native Americans to breed horses famous for stamina and sure-footedness. White pioneers initially disregarded the area as worthy of settlement because they assumed the landscape would make agriculture difficult.

But how wrong they were. Today the Palouse is one the most fertile wheat and lentil production regions in the United States. And local farmers will tell you that they contribute as much to the region's distinctive beauty as the natural forces which shaped its unique geographic features. By alternately tilling and leaving fallow adjacent tracts of land so as to prevent erosion on hillsides, farmers create a patchwork landscape which is a feast for the eyes indeed.

While there are scattered lodging options throughout the Palouse's small towns (see sidebar below), camping is a great way to get in touch with what makes the area so special: the land itself. Lewis and Clark and their Corps of Discovery thought the same on their way west in the Fall of 1805 when they set up camp at the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake rivers in what is today the town of Clarkston, in the heart of the Palouse.

While our modern-day Corps of Discovery involves only a couple in a station wagon, we are nonetheless ready for the wilds, our tent and sleeping bags in tow. My wife and I nod approvingly at each other, when, upon pulling into our first night's accommodations in the Palouse -- a drive-in campsite at Kamiak Butte County Park (509.397,6238) -- we watch the setting sun bathe the rolling green and amber hills in golden rays and then kiss us goodnight with a green flash on the horizon.

After a delicious night's sleep swaddled by the warm fresh air, we are awoken by the singing of warblers and nuthatches inhabiting the tree cover above. Upon the recommendation of a friendly park ranger, we decide to tackle the Pine Ridge Trail, a 3.5 mile round trip hike up and down the butte (no mountaineering skills required). Within an hour we are on the summit soaking in the panoramic splendor of the Palouse yet again.

Sitting there atop Kamiak Butte, we know we are not the first people to take in the magnificent view. But we are definitely alone now. The only sounds we can hear are the whistle of the wind, the singing of birds, and our own hearts beating. We are a long way from Seattle indeed.

COORDINATES

Travel time by car: 4 1/2 hours

Getting there: From Seattle, take Interstate 90 east for about 270 miles to Spokane, then follow State Road 195 south for another 45 miles into the heart of the Palouse country. Given the high cost of gas these days, though, flying to and renting a car in Spokane might be the most economical way to get to the Palouse. Alaska Airlines runs four 55-minute flights each day to and from Spokane for less than $100 round trip with an advance booking.

THINGS TO DO IN THE PALOUSE

Blow Glass

The New Morning Glass Gallery (110 S. Bridge St., Palouse, WA 99163; 509.878.8425) in the town of Palouse features the stained glass and sculptural artwork of several area glassblowers. Proprietors Jack Doebler and Mary Kernan offer classes and workshops in their brightly-painted studio quarters for those with a few days to spend in the area

Fall for the Palouse

See the Palouse River plunge 198 feet into a basalt-rimmed rock canyon on its way into the Snake River six miles downstream. The best view of the Palouse Falls is from a wheelchair-accessible observation platform. Hikers can take one trail down 250 feet to the base of the falls, or another which end runs around the bluffs above the falls for an alternative view of the magnificent cascade. The Falls and 1,200 surrounding acres are protected as a state park, with 10 drive-in tent campsites available on a first-come, first-serve basis from April through late September. For more information, call 360.902.8844.

Raft Hell's Canyon

June through September, follow in the wake of Lewis and Clark by running the rapids of the Snake River via raft (http://www.hellscanyonraft.com). Or take the easy yet no less exhilarating way out by riding a jet boat through Hell's Canyon (http://www.hellscanyonadventures.com).

Sleep

Pullman's Flemish style Churchyard Inn (206 St. Boniface Street, Uniontown, WA 99179; 509.229.3200) was built in 1905 as a parish house and later convent for the St. Boniface Catholic Church next door. Today both the church and inn are listed in the National Registry of Historical Places. Renovated in 1995 by its current owners, the inn, 15 miles south of Pullman, offers seven large guestrooms with private baths ($75-155/night).

Just across the state line in Moscow, Idaho, Solveig and Jon Miller's Paradise Ridge Bed & Breakfast (2455 Blaine Road, Moscow, Idaho 83843; 208.882.5292) provides living room views to Steptoe Butte and beyond. King-size beds, vaulted wood ceilings and private second-story decks make this spacious B&B one of the best ways to drink in the beauty of the Palouse any time of year.

Eat

While the Palouse is not known for gourmet dining, visitors can fill up on agro-ambiance and hearty American and European fare at any number of quirky establishments. Frequently packed with locals, Fazzari's (1281 Bridge St., Clarkston, WA 99403; 509.758.3386) dishes out the best pizza in the Palouse. Pullman's Old European (455 South Grand Ave., Pullman, WA 99165; 509.334.6381) specializes in waffles, cakes and teas, making it a delightful and quirky breakfast or lunch destination. Meanwhile, the Ponderosa (220 Michigan Ave., Orofino, Idaho 83544; 208.476.4818) is an oasis for area farmers and visitors alike, serving up family-style meals 7 days a week from 5 a.m. until 10 p.m. (http://www.ponderosacafe.com/menu.htm).

Off the beaten path

Nearby, the 1.4 million-acre Umatilla National Forest (http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/uma) includes grasslands, dense timber stands and dramatic granite outcroppings. Outdoor enthusiasts can hit the backcountry to indulge in hiking, horseback riding, skiing, hunting and fishing throughout the forest's diverse landscapes.

For those more prone to civilized living, Walla Walla and environs, only half an hour west of the Palouse, is home to two dozen wineries, most of which are open for wine tastings all weekend long. Three Rivers Winery (5641 West Hwy 12, Walla Walla, WA 99362; 509.526.9463) and (http://www.wallawallawine.com/wineries/lecole.html)

L'Ecole No. 41 (41 Lowden School Road, Lowden, WA 99360; 509.525.0940) are a couple of the area's best bets, offering daily wine tastings from 10 am to 5 pm or later.

And once you're gorged on Columbia Valley Merlot, head on over to the Patit Creek Restaurant (725 E Dayton Ave., Dayton, WA 99328; 509.382.2625, reservations recommended), which features four-star French dining Wednesday through Saturday evenings. The highly-rated restaurant is located in a little green cottage with stained glass windows on the north side of Dayton, 30 miles east of Walla Wall on scenic Highway 12. After dinner, take a walk around downtown Dayton to get a glimpse into the era of western settlement. The town has several dozen buildings on the National Historical Register dating back to the 1880s.

Celebrate the Fourth

Americana is big in the Palouse, and these traditional farming communities come out in full force to celebrate their Independence. The Fourth of July is one big party in the Palouse. In the morning the town of Johnson hosts a parade, followed by a community picnic in Albion, and culminating in fireworks and other revelry in the evening.

Hail the Lentil!

Every August, the town of Pullman, in the heart of the Palouse, hosts the National Lentil Festival (http://www.lentilfest.com). Locals and visitors alike can indulge in copious amounts of lentil chili while enjoying concerts, parades, art shows and sporting eventsóall in celebration of the tasty little bean-like legumes which helps propel the region's economy.