Cascade Leaf Peeping at Stehekin

Seattle Magazine, October 2007
By Roddy Scheer

Tucked into a mountain-clad ravine and accessible only by ferry boat, float plane or hiking boot, Stehekin has long been a favorite destination for Seattleites looking for the ultimate in-state getaway. The small and historic resort community—only 80 or so people hunker down in the remote Stehekin valley year-round—is located at the northern end of 50-mile-long Lake Chelan and constitutes the southernmost section of North Cascades National Park.

While most visitors make the trip to Stehekin during the summer months, fall brings visions of vine maples layering their sinewy branches over bold green conifer and golden larch boughs. The ensuing riot of color along the seemingly endless lakeshore and throughout the forests surrounding Stehekin gives even New England foliage a run for its money. But what New England doesn’t provide—8,000+ foot snow-capped mountain peaks in every direction reflected in the steely green waters of a seemingly endless glacier-fed lake—Stehekin offers aplenty.

Beyond leaf-peeping, visitors will find lots to keep them busy at Stehekin in the fall. Weather-willing, fishing, kayaking, hiking and biking are popular autumn pursuits. Additionally, the National Park Service runs a full slate of naturalist talks, guided walks and campfire programs right from its Golden West Visitor Center there, housed in what was once a grand old lakeside hotel. In between activities, visitors should be sure to check out the Golden West’s interpretive displays showcasing the natural and cultural history of Stehekin as well as artwork crafted by local residents.

For those who wish to linger longer than a single day, the Stehekin Landing Resort ($89-329/night depending on time of year, type of room/cabin, and number of guests; 509.682.4494, www.stehekinlanding.com), which is owned by the National Park Service, recently received a much-needed facelift and offers overnight guests the comforts of home in either hotel-style rooms or kitchen-equipped guest cabins. The Landing restaurant there serves three expertly-crafted meals a day, and a small convenience store provides all the other essentials. While most of the resort’s visitor services close down on October 15, some guest cabins are still available for rent year-round.

While staying at the Landing Resort represents the quintessential Stehekin experience, other lodging options abound. Hearty souls, of course, can bring their camping gear and pitch a tent at Purple Point, just a third of a mile from the boat landing, after obtaining a free backcountry permit from the National Park Service. Those looking for a more full-service experience any time of year should try reserving a guest cottage at the Silver Bay Inn ($135/night per couple and $195-245/night for four people; 800.555.7781, www.silverbayinn.com), each of which includes a kitchen and unlimited access to bikes, kayaks, canoes and rowboats to help visitors explore Stehekin by land or by lake. Another worthy lodging option is the Stehekin Valley Ranch ($85-150/night per couple; open seasonally only June 15-October 7; 509-682-4677, www.courtneycountry.com/stehekinvalleyranch.html), which offers various guest cabins ranging from the rustic to the refined. The Ranch, which has been in continuous operation since the 1940s, serves up hearty meals family-style in a grand old log dining hall replete with sawdust-covered floors. Its proprietors lead horseback riding, kayaking and river rafting trips for those guests looking to quicken their pulses.

To get to Stehekin from Seattle, visitors need to make the three-hour drive to the town of Chelan at the southern end of the eponymous lake, and then hop aboard one of the Lady of the Lake ferry boats (509.682.4584; www.ladyofthelake.com), which makes daily round trips to Stehekin starting at $39, or a float plane through Chelan Airways (509.682.5555; www.chelanairways.com) for $159 there and back.